Eclectically spooky, ethereal, and kaleidoscopic, Sebastian Kutzbach’s knitwear transport us into a galaxy. The Berlin based Chilean born artist’s Ingrato, the hobby starting as experiment, has emerged into the beginnings of a brand. With crippling attention to detail, and with an Anime inspired aesthetic, Kutzbach’s glamorous kitsch provides texture to an otherworldly tableau.
The name?
Ingrato, means ungrateful…it’s a person who never says thank you. Someone who gives you nothing in exchange, a serious character who tries to show you something uncomfortable. When I was learning about hand craft techniques, I noticed that these things happen in very specific places. People don’t know how important handcrafts are for different cultures. In Chile we have a lot of natural wool, so for me the name comes from a lack of respect in our society, and how ungrateful we are with our own cultures.
The process?
It was very spontaneous; I was staying in my ex-boyfriend’s house and her mother was always in the living room knitting. I always wanted to learn because it looks so beautiful! She showed me how to do it, then my two grandmas’ saw me once knitting and they showed me more techniques, so I learned from different women in my family.
Inspiration?
I don’t think too much about the reference, it’s more experimental depending on the material that I have. Right now, I’m doing a lot of recycling, and making my own yarns. I have a lot of inspiration, so it’s difficult to separate where the reference comes from but mostly its fantasy, I like to create characters. I really like to look like a character, and not a regular person in general.
Which is your favorite material?
Right now, cotton is my favorite because it’s easy to wear, but I also like cable and plastic as well. It depends on the moment, but I like to work with different textures.
Colors?
Black, but it’s very difficult to work with black because you get lost in the stitch. Neon pink…I love pink…I have a lot of masks right now with pink. Green, yellow, blue, I like when the colors have a lot of vibrations. Those kinds of colors I like a lot.
Someone you look up to?
I love Comme des Garcons! I love runways with a lot of architecture. More avant garde, than ready to wear, I really like more performative fashion and something that makes you feel unique.
Queerness?
My clothes are completely genderless, it’s for anyone who feels comfortable. Sometimes people ask me if I have things for men or women, and I hate answering that. That question needs to disappear as soon as possible…in fashion especially! I’m very open to talk about it, but I do collections for humans. I’m not looking to make someone look in some way, if you want to dress as a character you don’t need to divide yourself.
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STORY / ALEXANDER MAYS
PHOTOS / JOEL IVAN THOMAS